10 November 2024 · nIVA SHAH

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How has your cultural heritage influenced your approach to jewelry design with Aqura? Were there specific experiences that inspired you to start your brand?

I grew up in Indonesia, an archipelago surrounded by islands, often visiting beaches that inspired me. Aqura combines “aqua,” meaning water, with the beauty of the Aurora Borealis, reflecting nature’s elegance. Living amidst paddy fields, forests, rainforests, and rivers has deeply influenced this nature-inspired jewelry. I have always felt a connection to water, there’s a certain peace, power, and beauty in it.
In terms of actually starting the business, I just grew up with a business-minded family. I’ve always sort of been an entrepreneur having founded my own small business back home and having run a non-profit. So, to build this, I was just taking the knowledge from there to build something here. Once I realized there was interest and there was a demand for it, I just went for it.

Are there any Asian designers or traditions that have shaped Aqura’s style and direction?

I’ve always been drawn to Studio Ghibli movies, which I watched growing up and appreciate for their nostalgia and whimsical nature. I also admire Miss Sohee for the beauty, elegance, and wonder in her dresses.
I think in terms of tradition, I am always pondering on the idea of legacy and history. But I think it has more to do with my own family traditions and the way I am brought up than overarching Asian traditions.

Do you have any creative routines that keep you inspired, and how do you balance traditional influences with modern ideas in your designs?

Definitely, just like always looking and like, like having your eyes open, especially like we live in New York right now, you can find inspiration everywhere. Everything becomes inspiration. And also like social media and finding everything there’s just so much, like when I started the business, it wasn’t supposed to be like nature inspired. It wasn’t really shells, but now seashells are the focal point of this handmade jewelry. Initially I was always just interested in jewelry in terms of playing with beads and wires and all of that. I just made jewelry for myself and my friends for fun. I’ve always loved collecting shells, especially when they are more unique. Back in Jakarta, I have a collection of them, but I didn’t bring much of them to New York. Anyway, I had them laying around in a drawer somewhere and started to play with it. And I realized that you can make shells into, like jewelry, like quote, unquote beads, you know, like you can incorporate them. So just like having your eyes open to notice things like that is always something positive, I think, especially as a creative.

How do you approach selecting materials and techniques for Aqura pieces, and how do these choices reflect your brand’s values?

I think for the most part, a lot of the jewelry I make are sort of monochrome, at least in terms of pairing, so in terms of color, to finding shells and beads that correlate with that. A lot of the beads that I’ve chosen I actually got from a trip in Japan. So a lot of them are unique and rare glass beads and not your typical plastic beads. So having that sort of, I guess, Asian style to it. And then the shells are from all over. I have some from Bali that I personally collect. I bought some online, and so I kind of just play around with it and see what fits, intuitively.

What concepts or styles are you excited to explore as Aqura grows?

Aqua just launched like last week. Yeah, so it’s fresh, fresh. And there’s so much room to grow right now, I am only focusing on earrings for the first drop, but I really want to explore things like bracelets, necklaces, hair clips, like all of that, and then maybe even get into clothing, but like that’s far down the line. Right now is all about focusing on what I have in front of me, focusing on audience, focusing on growing in terms of like marketing and getting loyal customers, yeah, brand awareness, all of that, and then also strengthening, like, just the brand identity as well, like, who we are, what we do, how We are reflected, and ensuring other people understand that.

What challenges have you faced as a young Asian entrepreneur in jewelry, and how have you navigated them?

I think, if anything. And I don’t know how prevalent this is, but for me, when I’m shopping and I see someone put in their bio, it’s a small business or that it’s Asian owned, I am more inclined to shop from said stores. Because why wouldn’t I want to support other creatives in the same industry or uplift other Asians. I think one of the first things I did when I had my Instagram account was make sure I put that in bio. You know, not that it really stands out, but just like, in the sense that it’s like, it adds a sort of like perspective to who owns this business, and in my opinion adds a sense of community.

Is there a piece or collection within Aqura that holds special meaning for you?

I’ve always experimented with jewelry, but working with seashells introduced a new challenge—they’re much more fragile than plastic beads. I had to learn how to handle them, like drilling into shells, and consider logistics since they can easily break, especially for bracelets where movement can be an issue. Material choice and availability shaped my designs. And to expand to other forms of jewelry, I’ll need to do more thorough R&D.

What message or emotion do you hope Aqura’s jewelry conveys to those who wear it?

I want people to appreciate nature and recognize its beauty. Each piece is handmade and unique—no two sets are the same, and they can’t be replicated because they’re made from natural materials. There’s a sophistication and elegance in this, and I believe found objects aren’t just discarded things—they hold value and beauty.

How has your identity shaped your journey, and what advice would you give other Asian creatives starting their own brands?

In terms of identity, I think I’ve said this before but I’m so drawn to like water and bodies of water. That’s why seashells are the main theme, along with the color blue. It’s also a huge proponent to the branding itself, like the logo, has flowers in it because it’s very nature inspired, going back to the basics, you know, that sort of thing. And so I feel like when it comes to identity it is just like that has always been what I’m drawn to as an island girl.
Like I’ve said before, I’ve had a business before that I ended up stopping because of COVID. But it took off in Jakarta, and it was like, I like learning from that, not just Aqura, because I feel like I can’t say much from Aqura being a one week old baby, but I think just like, start like, whatever you have, like, I’ve always come from a very business sort of mindset background where it’s like what you know the research has to inform your decisions or whatever, which completely valid. Understand supply, demand, change all of that, but you’re not gonna get there until you fucking start. So make your Etsy website and do it. Yeah, that’s so good. And then do the thinking after, yeah. So just create, go for it, don’t overthink it, yeah. And then figure out the logistics once you’ve done it because once you’ve done it, it’s like, that’s the hardest hurdle, right? Yeah, that’s true. Once you’re out there, then you should do it. And you’re forced to, because you put yourself out there. Now you have to, yeah

How do you see technology influencing jewelry design, especially for new brands like Aqura?

I want to take a Rhino 3D class next semester—I’m actually waitlisted. I already emailed the professor because I wanted to take it this semester, and I’d like to incorporate 3D printing into my work. I’ve seen some amazing things done with it, and while I’m currently focused on beauty and elegance, I’m interested in exploring abstraction and experimenting with different materials. Right now, I work mainly with found objects because it’s accessible and something I enjoy, but I don’t want to limit myself. I want to learn, grow, and evolve with the industry.

What’s one key lesson you wish you’d known when you started Aqura, and how important has mentorship been for you?

With this brand, I had some expectations based on my previous business and nonprofit experience in Jakarta, but nothing turned out as I anticipated. I understand the Indonesian market, but the American market has been completely different. That’s why I say you need to put yourself out there and adapt as you go—it’s never quite what you expect.
For instance, social media operates differently here, and the target audience is distinct. In Jakarta, my soap business catered to mothers and people around 40 who prioritized skincare for themselves or their families. Here, the demographic and branding approach is entirely different, almost like speaking another language.
In hindsight, understanding these differences would have helped me plan more effectively. Now, even though I’ve launched the brand, I need to set aside time to develop stronger marketing strategies to reach my desired audience. New York, and the U.S. in general, is a unique and complex market.

How can design institutions and networks better support emerging brands like Aqura?

Once this brand grows further, I’d like to join fairs and sell at flea markets. Those events attract so many creatives, and being around other artists and designers is incredibly inspiring and valuable. Platforms that highlight and support each other’s work, like design spotlights, would be both helpful and motivating. Meeting other creatives is essential, especially in a city as diverse as New York, where inspiration is everywhere.
Being at Parsons has also impacted my work significantly. I’ve met people from all backgrounds, all driven by ambitious goals, which is inspiring on its own. My interest in wirework actually started when my roommate, a first-year student, was working on a wire project and asked me to help. Until then, I had been making jewelry with clear plastic threads. Working with wire sparked something new, and I started exploring it further. That experience set everything in motion, showing how collaboration and exposure to different materials and techniques can open up new creative possibilities.

Are there any upcoming collections or projects you’re excited about?

First, my focus is on marketing. I don’t know how to go about it here—I didn’t anticipate how much effort would be needed here. In Jakarta, word of mouth was incredibly effective. I would share a post, then my mom, friends, and their friends would share it, and soon people I didn’t even know were sharing it. The connections there feel stronger and more interconnected; a single story post could spread quickly and generate a steady revenue stream.
In many Asian communities, these connections are wide and strong, allowing one message to reach so many people. That’s what I’m trying to build here—a similar network and community. The Asian collective is incredibly important in this process, and I’m working on tapping into that same sense of connection.

Looking back, what would you tell your younger self when you first began this journey with Aqura?

When I had the soap business in Jakarta, I was overthinking everything, which taught me a lot. Reflecting on that experience, I realized things turned out very differently than I expected. With this current project, I decided to just dive in and make adjustments based on what I learn along the way, instead of overthinking each step. Putting myself out there pushes me to keep going. My past experiences with the soap brand and the jewelry line have been invaluable in establishing this business, even as I continue learning in real time. So, the advice I rely on now actually comes from those earlier experiences.

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